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| maihri |
on Mon 7 Jul 08, 8:26 PM to maihri's blog.
Can anyone tell me if there's an alternative English name for 'rayon challis'? Or where I can buy some in the UK? Or if there's a similar fabric that I could use as an alternative? It's to make a full circle skirt with good drape and movement to it for dancing.
And when you buy Lycra fabric, does it stretch both ways or more one way than the other and which way should I lay a pattern to cut stretch trousers (dancing again 
) from it? Parallel to the selvages or at right angles to them?
| 7 Jul 08, 8:38 PM Demonatrixx 6 yrs |
Ask Lady Red. Manners maketh the man | |
| 7 Jul 08, 9:11 PM adixxtion UK, 7 yrs |
Lycra fabric comes in different 'stretches' This can be two way or four way stretch. The pattern should say which stretch is suitable. Four way streth means it gives in four ways, so i would think this is best for trousers.
Lycra itslf, also comes in different weights, and i wouldn't use the cheaper lightweight lycra for trousers. Use a heavier version. The shop assistant should be able to advise you more
WRT to pattern cutting, trousers should be laid parallel to SOG unless the pattern diictates otherwise, but more importantly make sure you are using the right two way or four way stretch.
Hope that helps with the lycra pf XX www.adixxtion-designs.co.uk | |
| 8 Jul 08, 10:22 AM MissKitty UK, 10 yrs |
As Fi says about the lycra, it varies a LOT even if 2 fabrics look the same. 4 way stretch for dancing, it wont restrict your movement. The weaves also vary from fabric to fabric and you will find one way usually stretches more than the other - I make lingerie and such and always use the most stretch to go from side to side - after all you don't need the length of your legs stretching
As for the floaty skirt, you can use any light drapey fabric that you like, if you aren't experienced in identifying what will drape best ask for advice at your fabric store, they will be only too happy to help I am sure! If you are also newish to sewing ask for one that is easier to sew as well as some of these fabrics are slippery and can be difficult to sew Also you have got triple stretch stitch for the lycra or an overlocker that can do the job? Sorry, I don't know your sewing experience level and a normal lockstitch will just snap once the lycra stretches.
Feel free to memo if you ever want to chat about sewing Miss Kitty
=^.^= | |
| 8 Jul 08, 4:10 PM maihri UK, 8 yrs |
Thanks for the advice folks, much appreciated. How do you find the SOG on 4 way stretch lycra? (I never realised how ignorant I was!!) Some of these fabrics don't look as though they have one. Hints much appreciated! Maihri | |
| 9 Jul 08, 12:10 AM gipsydelight UK(PO), 7 yrs |
They sell theatrical silk or dancers silk (not really silk) in Fabricworld which is similar to rayon challis, i think you just have to look around for it. As far as cutting patterns go, itīs always best to cut parralel to the straight of grain, that is the selvedge. A knitted fabric will always be more stretchy across the width of the material. Woven fabrics also have just slightly more stretch that way too. For a good stretch or drape on a woven fabric you can cut across the grain, that is diagonally. For your trousers you need to cut them parrallel to the straight of grain or they will never look right. If you are making a fifties style skirt, then remember they are full circle or more and the waist and hem should be cut across the grain for the best effect. | |
| 9 Jul 08, 12:11 PM MissKitty UK, 10 yrs |
I thought that too but my usual glossy lycra I use for lingerie stetches a lot more in length that width Always best to check! Miss Kitty
=^.^= |
go figure. I already cut a couple of items before realising too and the difference in stetch was rather significant so I had to do them again. Another I had stretched the same both directions 