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| scarlett101 |
Below is an article(taken from a series) i wrote for a magazine some years ago in my capacity as a corsetiere, i hope it will be of interest and help to people when thinking about purchasing a corset.....
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CORSETS!
You have seen them, fell in love with them, and decided to take the plunge and invest in something that will not only give you, the wearer, hours of pleasure, but give the public around you a visual delight too. The corset, in whatever form, be it underbust, overbust, waistcinchers, waspies, or even the more unusual ribbon corset, is a beautifully engineered garment.
It saddens me when I see people in boned bodices, and they refer to them as a corset, they are sadly disillusioned and ill informed. A basque is merely a top that looks similar in form, it is obviously very pretty and flattering, but it will not do the work that a corset does in order to mould the hourglass, restricted torso.
Although the corset is predominantly thought of as a piece of women's attire and wardrobe, this article does not want to discriminate, and these points do refer as much to the corset wearing TV, gay, or cross gendered person! If you like wearing them, then go for it!
Hopefully we will unravel the secretive world of corsets and their construction, and give you the confidence to venture forward, armed with a little more knowledge about your required acquisition - after all, you wouldn't buy a car without understanding a little about the engine size and mechanics that make it work would you?
Firstly, take time to look at what's available and choose a style to suit you. Something that will flatter you, enhance you and give you the support you require. If you can't find a style to suit, then think about having a custom made corset made. It will be well worth the investment!
Overbust corsets are undoubtedly the most popular. Constructed right, and made to fit correctly, they will reduce the waist by 2-4'. This is the ideal, although if undertaking waist training, greater degrees of reduction may be achieved overtime. However this should not be undertaken lightly, and for the majority it isn't what is required. As a rule of thumb, if the corset meets completely at the back, then the next size down is required, for the gap at the back is part of its allure. It's the challenge to close the gap, knowing that you are challenging your body to take more pleasure (or punishment?) as you, the wearer (or your partner) see fit. A good fitting corset will not need the support of a bra underneath, but will hold the bust in place.
Just remember that back in Edwardian/Victorian days, the more 'portly' woman had to be just as well supported, as the young 'lean' lady! It is a fallacy that the larger lady cannot have a corset to fit. Yes you can. It may just mean adapting the style to suit.
Underbust corsets sit, as the name suggests, either under the bust, or can be built up to mimic the shape of the underbust area. These look lovely over a garment, or can be worn in true 'O' style with open breasts. They can be worn with a bra though too, and form a wonderful alternative to a basque.
Waistcinchers, waspies and ribbon corsets. This group of corsets covers various styles which have been borne over the centuries. Waistcinchers are typically 6-10'' in depth, and span the waist and upper hips. A 'waspie' is really a recent term, though the 'ribbon corset' is from the early 1900, and as the name suggests was constructed from pieces of ribbon approximately 1 ˝ - 2'' in width. This style allowed the beautiful woven silk ribbons to be used in corsetry, rather than the plain woven fabrics so commonly used.
The all important thing about the corset is the construction. It is the key to allowing the garment to do its desired job. It is the traditional components that allow corsetieres to design a traditional garment into a work of modern art. Many ready made corsets follow traditional patterns that were used 100 years or so ago, in modern days though, they have very often become stylised, and are leaning away from the traditional structure from which they came. Fashions and needs change, and new production techniques will ensure the corset will be around for many years to come.
The basic elements of a corset are:
Base fabric, often known as coutil, ensures the corset will take tight lacing and do what it was designed for. This fabric can be used on its own, or can be used as a base for a more exquisite fabric to sit on top. It can further more, have a luxurious lining to finish it off.
Spirals/bones. Once known and made from whale bone, these are now constructed from metal. The length and positioning of these is important in the structure of the corset. These are the most comfortable type to wear, and are constructed in such a way that allows the corset to move with the body. A typical corset will have 12-14 spirals, though as many as 24 spirals can be used!
Flat steels. These are flat metal bones. Used in the main as back lacing supports. They can however be used in place of spirals, but will not give to the body, and hence give a totally different shape. They can be preformed into shapes, and will tease the body into a predetermined shape.
Busk. This is the front metal opening. Once the wearer has learnt how to open and close the front it does allow the wearer to get in and out of a corset unaided. The laces are loosened at the back, and the busk is done up first. The laces are then tightened.
There are many styles of busk available, but they must be suited to the fabric and construction of the corset. The most modern flexi-busk, sits lovely in a silk corset, though completely useless in a tight lacing leather corset. You will need the components to do the job, and a sold steel busk is called for. Please note though, a front busk which has the two clasps close together indicates this is the bottom of the busk. It is intended to aid 'tummy control' and is also designed to re enforce the area of greatest stress.
Lacing, comes in various lengths (though the longer the better in my humble opinion) Never tie laces of a back lacing corset around the front. They are designed to be tied at the middle of the back. Again, always tighten the corset from the back loop, and hence, loosen from the middle back up and down before removal. With practice, the corset wearer can do these on his/her own.
Modesty Panel. This is the panel at the back of the corset, underneath the lacing. Some wearers decide that they do not wish to see the flesh against the lacing, and using a modesty panel gives a smoother line and more elegant back detail.
Eyelets, oh such a small detail, that is often overlooked! Trust me, being colour coordinated just ads that final touch.
Suspenders. These can be detachable or permanent and will give a totally new look to your corset. They can often be added on to a corset (even ready made ones offer this service) so it is well worth asking about. The wearer can often have as little or as many added as required.
Other traditional and dying techniques, often overlooked in corset making, are quilting, cording and subtle embroidery details known as flossing. Quilting and cording in select panels adds strength and support without the need for costly spirals, and the corsets were often decorated by their wearers with fine laces, trims and ribbons along the upper edge. All these forgotten techniques were used throughout the Edwardian and Victorian periods to embellish and personalise corsets, but sadly today they are rarely used.
So you have now researched and pondered, deliberated and cogitated on the purchase of a corset. If you are thinking of buying a ready made corset, or having one made, then a few final pointers are:
• Have yourself measured properly, and be realistic in choosing your size. Corsets do not give in width, they merely 'mould' to the person wearing them.
• Think about the support and reduction you wish to achieve. Buy a corset fit for the purpose.
• Think about different styles. Corsets can disguise parts of us that we dislike, though please realise it will forced somewhere else! Those DD's can suddenly look voluminous in a low cut front corset!
• Think about the other details….Straps? Shorter length? Longer front? Busk or no busk? Fabric? Linings? Suspenders?
• Think about the fabric and pattern, what it is to be worn with .Horses for courses.
If you can't find one to suit, then have one made. It will ultimately be worth it, it will give you endless hours of pleasure wearing!
Finally, A note on wearing time! The corset does compress and rearrange your internal organs, so the wearer will need to learn to wear the corset. This really applies to every style of corset. Start by wearing the corset for a few hours and not too tight, just comfortable, then tighten as feels comfortable. Believe it or not, the corset also needs to get used to the wearer! Doing it this way will also prolong the life of your corset. With time and practice, you will achieve wearing time of 6-8 hours comfortably.
Finally, ENJOY!
Edited Thu 12 Jul 07, 12:57 AM by scarlett101
| 11 Jul 07, 9:33 PM electricfog UK, 7 yrs |
Thanks for a very interesting and informative article. ef | |
| 11 Jul 07, 9:57 PM MissKitty UK, 10 yrs  |
Nice one  Must have been reading my mind recently - I just posted my own little guide a couple of days ago after watching people get ripped off by shoddy dealers! http://www.informedconsent.co.uk/weblogs/MissKit... Miss Kitty
=^.^= | |
| 11 Jul 07, 10:34 PM littlestarlight UK, 6 yrs |
Trys not to dribble, corsets are just sooooo delicious
submissive from the core | |
| 12 Jul 07, 7:25 AM ghost666 6 yrs |
what a fabulous write up. i knew they were complex but not quite why. i had a lovely corsette from vollers. it looked nice till after an op where it then failed to achieve the desired look....maybe a badly fitted one, maybe i changed shape to much. i sold it as i didnt see the point in having something i couldnot bring myself to wear. i know the way i want the corsette to look on me...i know im a odd shape...there is only a little bit between my hips and waist and im a lil busty too boot , so that and my short height i have stuggled, now with this info you posted iam more clear in what one to look for. thanks hun.
no doubt ill be speaking to you soon it is better to ask forgivness, than to ask for permission | |
| 12 Jul 07, 10:11 AM scarlett101 UK, 7 yrs |
I'm glad the article is appreciated. I have an unhealthy obsession with corsets, and i have been told my love for them shows in my work I have such a big hate for badly fitting, thoughtlessly made corsets, that i have to be with withstrained when in the vicinity of someone in one. I am always surprised by the amount of sellers/shops that sell badly fitting corsets, just to earn a quick buck...trust me, this day and age, it won't be long before someone sues for 'internal damage' or some such other thing.....
From experience, go the extra mile, and pay a little more for something that will give you (and others) pleasure in wearing and seeing XXXX **NEWLY UPDATED!**The 'Traditional Bridal' side of www.adixxtion-designs.co.uk. | |
| 12 Jul 07, 12:52 PM slavesara_m66 UK, 5 yrs |
thank you so much have wanted one for the longest time and all i can ever find, are as you say a basque. Master i know would love for me to have one. so i have question where do i go to find a good one i dont mind having it made but really where. | |
| 12 Jul 07, 11:17 PM strictlynormal UK(HD), 6 yrs |
Without being at all flippant, a good place to start would be a memo to princess_fi asking which events or fairs she is planning on being at. We saw her at LAM, saw examples of her work, different materials etc and decided to have a corset made to measure by her. I have nothing but praise for the whole process.
The finished article is absolutely gorgeous, with some very clever and well thought out details, and has attracted some lovely comments and admiring glances
It wasn't the cheapest thing in the world to have made but it wasn't expensive either considering all the work that goes into it. It fits perfectly, looks great and is unique which makes it excellent value for money in our book SN
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| 15 Jul 07, 2:37 PM simonelibra UK, 5 yrs |
thanks for the information princess_fi I will certainly get in touch with you next time I treat myself simone x
Do not follow the path, go where there is no path to begin the trail - Ashanti Proverb | |
| 16 Jul 07, 9:41 PM Rosamund UK(SW), 6 yrs |
Excellent! Thank you for posting this. Rosamund | |
| 16 Oct 07, 8:49 PM lady_samantha UK, 6 yrs £ |
Excellent advice I too am a fellow corset lover. Leather particular so sensual hmmm www.ladysamantha.co.uk -- my online home |
